Bra Guide - Which bra shape suits me best?
Our bra guide tells you everything you need to know about bras! We explain the different shapes of bra and which type is suitable for which bust. We also cover the role of underwire width and why a well-fitting underbust band is so important.
BRA SHAPES
Demi-Bra
For every day with a hint of cleavage
The demi-bra has a half-height centre panel and a V-shaped neckline. Unlike a full-cup bra, the cup does not completely enclose the breast, but instead covers around three-quarters of it, leaving more cleavage exposed. Nevertheless, it provides good support for everyday wear.
Full Cup Bra
Provides perfect support and optimal comfort
The Full Cup Bra is characterised by its high centre panel and high-necked cups, which cover a large part of the bust. This model is particularly suitable for women with larger breasts and a high bust volume, as it provides ample support.
Balconette Bra
For an enhanced cleavage
A balconette bra has a high centre panel and horizontal neckline. The cups envelop the breasts from below, lifting and bringing them towards the centre. This cut creates a beautiful neckline while still providing ample support. This bra style has wide-set straps. The balconette bra is particularly suitable for women with a large bust.
Bralette
Sexy. And comfy!
A bralette is an elegant alternative to an underwired bra. It has no underwire and may also be strapless. It emphasises your natural cleavage. Usually made of fine lace, it is suitable for everyday wear and also seductive while being the most comfortable choice. Tip: Make the bralette part of your outfit and let it peek out from the neckline of your top.
Soft Bra
Providing a wire-free sensation
Soft bras either have no underwire or have a soft silicone underwire. They can be worn as everyday bras or for additional support at night or during pregnancy. A soft bra is ideal if you find underwires uncomfortable and are looking for extra comfort.
Multiway Bra
The all-rounder bra
Whether you prefer a strapless bra or one with crossed or normal straps, our multiway bras are the perfect solution for any top. These balconette bras offer a variety of straps to suit your individual needs without compromising on support. Most models feature wide fastenings and thin silicone strips on the cups for additional support.
Plunge Bra
For a sexy neckline
Thanks to its low centre panel, the plunge bra creates a deeper neckline, making it ideal for V-necklines. It creates a beautiful décolleté for women with a smaller bust size and makes the breasts look larger. However, for women with a large bust and high breast volume, we recommend a balconette bra, as there is a risk that the breasts will slip out of the cup of a plunge bra and slide together in the middle.
Sports Bra
Maximum support with every movement
Since breasts have no muscles, they require special support during exercise, such as that provided by a sports bra. Sports bras have a high centre panel and a more closed cut, which covers the breasts almost completely. This keeps the breasts close to the chest, providing maximum support and minimising movement. Sports bras are available with or without underwires. There are also models with different back styles, such as racerback, regular, or crossed straps. We recommend wearing a suitable sports bra for every type of sport to protect your sensitive breast tissue and allow you to exercise worry-free.
Nursing Bra
Easy breastfeeding and excellent support
Nursing bras differ from other types of bra in that they have a fastening above the cup. This allows the cup to be folded down for breastfeeding. Our nursing bras have a multi-row hook fastening, enabling you to adjust the underbust band during pregnancy and after birth. During pregnancy, the cups should be purchased a little larger so that the nursing bra still fits perfectly once your milk comes in.
CUP FEATURES
Unpadded bra
For a natural look
Unlike padded bras, unpadded bras have cups made of fabric or lace, rather than foam. Unpadded bras give the bust a more natural look.
Padded Bra
Support and shape
The cups of a padded bra are made of foam to provide additional support and shape. The padding can vary in firmness and thickness, and can be pre-shaped as a shell or shaped by seams. Padded bras prevent nipple visibility through clothing.
THE CENTER PANEL
Several attributes can influence how a bra fits at the centre front, i.e. the area between the breasts. The centre front of an underwired bra should sit snugly against the sternum, separating the breasts. It should not press against the rib cage or rest on breast tissue. If this is not the case, you can read here to find out what might be causing it:
1. How high does the centre front go?
From plunge cuts to full cup and balconette bras... The height of the centre gore is essential for achieving a good fit for many breast shapes. Women with large, soft breasts that are close together will quickly encounter problems with a deep centre gore, as the breast tissue will constantly try to escape from the cups 'through the middle'. Conversely, for women with breasts that are slightly further apart and lower breast volume, a balconette bra can be problematic as the centre gore may press against the sternum, causing the breasts to sink into the cup with a larger cup size.
2. How much space is there between the underwires?
If there is hardly any space between your breasts, choose bras with underwires that are close together in the centre. Otherwise, the underwires may constantly press on the breast tissue and the centre bridge may not fit properly against the sternum. Bras with some space in the middle can usually accommodate both.
3. How strong are the underwires?
Some women experience discomfort when the underwires press against their sternum at the centre of the front of the bra, even when it is not too tight. This is often because the cups are slightly too large or deep, meaning that strong underwires press too hard against the rib cage. Typically, the underwires receive gentle counterpressure from the breast tissue, which prevents this issue. If this is not the case, however, pressure can be exerted on the body. Anatomy also plays a major role here. If the sternum protrudes slightly, pressure may also be exerted. The situation is different with soft underwires. These are designed to hold the cups against the body and support the breasts. However, with a larger bust, underwires that are too weak may protrude from the centre gore or under the armpits, thus failing to fulfil their purpose.
4. How deep are the cups?
If the centre gore refuses to lie flat but the bra size is correct, this is due to the shape of the cups. Many bras have flatter cups that often lack depth towards the centre gore. This means that a fuller bust does not fit entirely into the cups, consequently pushing the centre panel away from the body. You can easily see how deep the cups are cut and how their volume is distributed by laying the bra flat on a table. If the cups almost or completely touch, with most of the depth near the centre gore, then the bra is suitable for fuller breasts with a deep volume that sit close together. Conversely, breasts that are closer to the rib cage — i.e. those with a wider, flatter base — tend to work well with flat cups and get lost in deep ones. All SugarShape bras have a narrow centre gore, which works well with many different breast types and provides a certain depth for larger breasts. However, there are also differences in cup depths. 'Clara Lace', for example, shows off a flatter chest beautifully, while 'True' and 'Aira'are perfect for breasts that require more depth.
UNDERWIRE WIDTH
Whether a bra fits well is not just a matter of size. Some styles simply do not suit all busts, and an important factor in achieving the perfect fit is the width of the underwire. Never heard of it? Don't worry — many women feel the same way. The width of an underwire is determined during the bra's development. It must match the style, size range, and function of the bra. The underwire width is one of the many factors considered when developing a model that is graded across all sizes – both the cup size and the underbust measurement play a role here.
Some women have a wide chest base, while others do not. There is a simple trick you can use to determine where your chest base is: hold your breast with one hand and press it against your body to see where the breast tissue ends. You can now see how high your breast volume extends – up to your collarbone, up to your armpit, or below. On the side, you can see how far your bust line extends. This area should be completely enclosed by the underwires. As a general rule, if your breast tissue ends before the middle of your armpit, narrower underwires are sufficient. If your bust line ends behind the middle of your armpit, however, you need wider underwires. (Exceptions always prove the rule when it comes to bra fitting!)
Compared to 'Pure', the model 'Lucy' from SugarShape has wider underwires, making it ideal for women with a broad chest base.
Narrow underbust bands and large cups tend to make the underwires too wide, whereas larger underbust widths or smaller breasts often mean the underwires are too narrow. Breast volume is distributed very differently across the various sizes, not to mention the unique physique of each woman.
Women with large breasts that are close together often need a certain cup depth at the centre gore to ensure the bra fits correctly. If the centre gore sticks out, this is not necessarily due to the wrong size, but can also be due to an unsuitable design. For bust sizes with a wide chest base and less volume, the cups may not be filled properly, but the underwires will fit. These women should opt for bras with flatter cups. The Cariba bra is a great choice, as it is cut flatter at the bottom and has an open cup edge that pushes the bust slightly upwards. The 'Pure', on the other hand, has a more closed cup cut and thus also holds breasts with a higher volume in place.
The best way to check the fit of the cups and underwires is to stand in front of a mirror.
Does the centre bridge fit?
Does the cup edge create an attractive finish to the bust?
Do the underwires completely enclose your breast tissue at the sides and under your armpits?
Do the underwires dig into my armpits, or does breast tissue spill over under my arms?
Are the lower and side areas of the cup completely filled or are there empty areas?
THE UNDERBUST BAND
With a well-fitting bra, 80% of the support comes from the underbust band. Only 20% of the load is distributed across the straps. However, if the band is too loose and cannot provide adequate support, this can easily lead to neck tension, back pain, headaches, and even shoulder deformities. The bra should fit snugly without restricting your breathing or freedom of movement.
While a well-fitting underbust band may feel a little strange at first, you won't want to be without it in the long run. Everything stays in place, everything is supported, your posture improves, and you look slimmer, curvier and more confident!
At SugarShape, finding your right size is easy! We tailor our lingerie to provide optimal support! Not sure if you're wearing the right bra? No problem — 80–90% of women don't know their correct size!
Check 1:
Bend down, stand up again, and stretch your arms up. Now stand sideways to a mirror and check that your underbust band is still parallel to the floor. Has it slipped up?
Check 2:
Pull your underbust band away from your body. Does your fist fit loosely between the band and your back?
Check 3:
Ideally, a new bra should only be fastened on the first hook, as it will stretch with wear and after several washes. Can you fasten your bra completely, or could you even tie it? If you answered 'yes' to either of these questions, your underbust band is probably too loose.